The first piece of advice I can offer is this:
About a week prior to the day you will be installing your lift, go get yourself a couple of cans of good penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Rust Eater, not the cheap stuff.) Then, each day, go under your jeep and liberally spray down all of the bolts that you will be removing during the installation process. This includes: Shock bolts, shackle bolts, leaf spring bolts, u-bolts, brake lines, track bars and sway bars (if you still have them) etc. and don’t be stingy with the spray. This will make your job much easier on the day of the install. Otherwise you may (and probably still will anyway) run into the problem I ran into. Sometimes the bolts will rust themselves to the metal sleeves inside the bushings on your leaves and shocks. If this happens, there’s not much you can do except grab the sawzall or a grinder and cut the bolts out. (Which we had to do on almost every bolt on the passenger side

Now onto a list of tools you will need to do the job. This can be done with basic hand tools, but it will be quicker and easier with air and power tools.
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive is best)
• Ratchets in all three drive sizes
• A Crowbar and some pry bars
• A BFH (5 lb sledge hammer works well)
• Screwdrivers
• Assortment of box end wrenches
• (21 mm for frame spring mounts, 19 mm for shackle end, 19 mm deep well for U-bolts, 17 mm for lower shock mounts)
• Assortment of sockets
• Screwdrivers
• Grinder
• Sawzall
• Blowtorch
• Vice grips
• Needle nose pliers
• Channel locks
• Brake line wrenches
• 2 sets of jack stands. One pair tall enough to go to the frame, and one pair (3 tons should work) to go under your axles
• A floor jack that will reach your frame
• A high lift jack
• A Torque Wrench

These are tools we used during the lift install, your needs may vary, but these are what I consider must haves.

Now, onto the actual installation. I have found it easiest to start with the rear, especially if this is the first time you are installing a lift as the front will require more work. With that in mind:

Rear Installation:

Step 1: first, chock your front tires. Then loosen the lug nuts on your rear tires. Then raise the back of the vehicle until the tires are off the ground and the springs are at full droop. Put a tall set of jack stands under the frame, I find that the rear cross member is the best spot for this, just make sure the stands are in enough that they wont be in your way (as in giving you enough room to get to the rear shackles)

Step 2: Take your shorter jack stands and put them under the rear axle on either side of the differential, close to the spring mounts. They don’t have to actually touch the axle at this point, as long as they are close. You don’t want the springs under any kind of load.

Step 3: Remove the rear tires. If it is still connected, remove the rear track bar and discard it. You don’t need it on a leaf sprung vehicle, in fact the Rubicon Express instructions state three times that it will not be re-used.

Step 4: Remove the u-bolts. If they are rusted, hit the nuts with a torch to get them to expand, and try to remove them that way, if they are bashed beyond recognition or still wont budge, grab a grinder with a metal cut off disc and just cut them off. They wont be re-used anyway. NOTE: you should NEVER Re-install old U-bolts!!

Step 5: Remove the shackle end bolt from the leaf spring and let it drop, then remove the frame mount bolt. Get rid of the old springs. I personally suggest replacing all hardware while you are under there. The frame mount bolt is a 5” long 9/16” bolt, while the shackle end is a 5” long 1/2” bolt. I replaced mine with grade 8 hardware.
Once both leaves are removed, the axle should rest on the jack stands

Step 6: Remove the rear shocks. Then un-bolt the rear brake line. This is he soft line that runs from a mount on the frame by the fuel filter, to the top of the driver’s side of the axle. Save the bolt that holds the brake line to the axle, but discard the rest.

Step 7: Install the new Stainless Steel extended brake line that came with the RE kit. Simply attach the nut style end to the hard line, and the banjo style end to the axle, and reconnect the axle lines.

Step 8: Install the new rear leaf springs. I have found it easiest to start with the frame mount. Get some good grease and grease up the new bushings, install them in the springs, then install the bushing spacers (with grease) and be liberal with your grease use, not only will it make the job easier, but it will help prevent squeaks and bushing rot. The 5lb sledge I mentioned earlier may be necessary to help motivate the spring eye to line up with the bolt holes. Once you get the bolt in, tighten it down, but not too much.

Step 9: Install the shackle end of the spring. Once that’s done, place your degree shims (if not installed on the spring pack) on the centering pin with the fatter side facing your transfer case (so it tilts the pinion up) Then, have a buddy help lift the axle off of the stands, kick them out of the way, and set the axle down on the springs, then adjust it so that it sits properly on the centering pin.

Step 10: Once you have the axle positioned on the springs, put the new U-bolts on the axle. Tighten them down, but don’t torque them to spec just yet. Just tighten them enough that they won’t move.

Step 11: Remove the stock rubber brake line extension from the upper mount on the frame. Then remove the lower mount from the axle tube. To install your new Stainless Steel Brake line, simply attach it where the old line went. NOTE: You WILL need to bleed your brakes after the installation is complete.

Step 12: Collect your tools from under the vehicle. Re-install your tires, and lower the Back of the Jeep to the ground.

Front Installation:

The front suspension requires a bit more work than the rear did, as there are a few more things that need to be dealt with. Such as the steering. Expect to spend a little more time on the front suspension. So with that being said.

Step 1: Installing the new leaf springs up front follows the same basic procedure detailed above for the rear leaf spring removal and installation.

Step 2: The tricky part of the front suspension is installing the drop pitman arm. The installation of the new one is actually the easy part. The challenge comes in removing the old pitman arm. First, separate the draglink from the pitman arm. Then remove the retaining nut holding the pitman arm to the steering box. Now, you can try using a pitman arm puller here. I recommend renting one from your local parts store. That way when it breaks, they will loan you another one.
If the pitman arm puller doesn’t work. You are left with few options. I ended up having to use a cut off wheel to cut a notch out of the pitman arm and motivate it off of the steering box with a 5 lb. Sledgehammer.

Step 3: Once the old Pitman arm is removed, simply slide the new drop pitman arm onto the steering box in the same location and orientation of the old one. Tighten the nut, and re-attach the drag link.

Step 4: Remove the old rubber soft brake lines from the calipers. Then disconnect the soft lines from their mounts on the frame. The RE kit comes with hard line extensions, but I opted to do it right and install some extended stainless steel soft lines for safety. To install them, simply hook them up in place of the old rubber lines. NOTE: You WILL need to bleed your brakes before driving your rig!

Once you have everything tightened up, lower your rig back to the ground. Now grab your torque wrench and climb back under your Jeep. Torque all of your u-bolts between 65 and 80 ft. lbs. Then torque the frame end spring mount bolts to 85 to 95 ft. lbs. Check around under the vehicle to ensure everything is connected properly and everything is out from under the vehicle. Bleed your brakes and take her for a Test Drive